On The Build Site with Hickory Dickory Decks!

On The Build Site with Hickory Dickory Decks!


This is a rotary laser so basically, you have a receiver and you have the laser set the top of the rod or a certain point in the
rod to that sill and then I would match the beeper the receiver to the laser and
I can go around and adjust the heights of the posts based on the screening rod These are gonna determine how level our whole deck is from side to side, normally we would set them low with a post if it
was like a higher deck but because it’s only 30 inches off the ground if that
generally will set the beam right in the bracket and then just shim out the fret
backside you’re in and then pull straight through just installed our ledger board usually
concrete drill or a hammer drill set the first one I helped the other end so yeah
so then once the ledger board was level the whole way across Jeremy went in and
used the concrete drill to drill up the holes for seat anchors and then I
hammered the sleeve anchor into the hole and then Jeremy went along after and
fired them in with the impact basically the sleeve anchor it’s you’ve
got your threaded rod on the inside the wedge on the end and then this sleeve is
not here and it’s split so as the nut tightens here it pushes the sleeve down
the rod and it opens up the end there so that’s happening inside the concrete
wall it’s pulling the ledger board tight to the wall and expanding this that they
can’t pull away we’re going to work out our sixteens or
at least our joy spacing whether six teens or not then we mark them all out
and then you’re gonna start putting their joist on it’s a rubberized membrane
it’s got tar in it and it protects the top of the joists from rot
so whenever screw goes through the deck board or a clip or whatever into the
joist it goes through this first and it seals up the hole so water can counter this is probably like one of the best things you do to make your substructures last longer. It’s kind of like undercoating for your car so here is VEKA it’s a composite
product it’s got a PVC and I believe glass bead foam core with a PVC cap
stock it’s extremely durable it doesn’t really expand a whole lot
lasts a really really long time what’s really really sure all right so what we’re gonna do is
measure out a little bit more than the width of a board from the wall of the
house we’re gonna make a pencil mark each and where the decking is and then
we’re gonna snap a chalk line and that gives us a nice straight line in the two
points if we just push the deck board tight against the wall it’ll end up
following the curve of the wall if there is one and then every single board that
we spaced off of that board will carry that career rate to the end of the deck
so it’s better off to start with a straight board right at the wall and
work our way out based off of the straight board that way we know the end
of our decks gonna be straight

Author: Kevin Mason

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